Squalene

INCI: Squalene | Function: Emollient, Antioxidant | Type: Hydrocarbon (unsaturated)

What Is Squalene?

Squalene is a natural triterpene hydrocarbon found in high concentrations in human sebum (~12%), shark liver oil, and plant sources like olive and amaranth. It is a precursor to cholesterol and steroid hormones and acts as a natural antioxidant in skin. Due to instability (6 double bonds), squalane (hydrogenated form) is more commonly used.

Key Skin Benefits

+ Natural component of human sebum
+ Antioxidant protection (neutralizes singlet oxygen)
+ Precursor to skin cholesterol and steroids
+ Excellent skin compatibility
+ Helps maintain skin lipid barrier

Pros

+ Skin-identical lipid
+ Natural antioxidant properties
+ Superior biocompatibility
+ Very lightweight feel

Cons

− Highly unstable (6 double bonds) — oxidizes rapidly
− Short shelf life once opened
− Must be stored in airtight, dark packaging
− Squalane preferred for commercial products
− Plant sources yield less than shark (ethical concerns)

Specifications

Property	Value
Usage Areas	Face, Eye, Body, Hair
Product Type	Leave-On
Source	Plant (olive, amaranth)
Natural Level	Natural

Safety Ratings

Metric	Rating
Skin Sensitivity	0/5 (none)
Comedogenic Rating	0-1/5
EWG Score	1/10

Regional Regulatory Limits

Region	Leave-on %	Rinse-off %	Status
EU (CosIng)	No limit	No limit	Allowed
US (CIR/FDA)	No limit	No limit	Allowed
Japan (MHLW)	No limit	No limit	Allowed
ASEAN	No limit	No limit	Allowed
China (NMPA)	No limit	No limit	Allowed

Typical Usage % by Product Type

Product Type	Typical %
Premium face oil	1 - 20%
Anti-aging serum	1 - 5%

References

Huang ZR et al. (2009) — Squalene review. PMID: 19509133
Reddy LH & Couvreur P (2009) — Squalene in medicine. PMID: 19675531
EWG Skin Deep — Score 1/10

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