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Serine
Also known as: L-Serine
INCI: Serine | Function: Humectant, Conditioning | Type: Humectant
What Is Serine? Serine is a non-essential amino acid that is a key component of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). It plays a critical role in maintaining stratum corneum hydration by binding water molecules. Serine is also a precursor to ceramide synthesis (via sphingosine pathway), making it important for barrier lipid production. Found naturally in high concentrations in healthy skin — levels decline with age and in dry skin conditions.
Key Skin Benefits + Essential NMF component — maintains skin hydration + Ceramide precursor — supports barrier lipid synthesis + Binds water in stratum corneum + Levels naturally decline with age — replenishment beneficial + Non-irritating — naturally present in healthy skin
Pros + + Natural NMF component + + Supports ceramide synthesis + + Excellent safety profile + + Affordable and stable + + Works in hair and skin formulations
Cons − − Not a stand-alone active — works best in amino acid blends − − Limited visible benefits as monotherapy − − Heat-degradable
Specifications
Property Value
Usage Areas Face, Eye, Body, Hair
Product Type Leave-On, Rinse-Off
Source Synthetic / Fermentation
Natural Level Natural-derived
Safety Ratings
Metric Rating
Skin Sensitivity 1/5
Comedogenic Rating 0/5
EWG Score 1/10
Regional Regulatory Limits Region Leave-on % Rinse-off % Status EU (CosIng) No limit No limit Allowed US (CIR/FDA) No limit No limit Allowed Japan (MHLW) No limit No limit Allowed ASEAN No limit No limit Allowed China (NMPA) No limit No limit Allowed
Typical Usage % by Product Type Product Type Typical % Serum 0.1 - 1% Moisturizer 0.05 - 0.5% Hair Treatment 0.1 - 1%
References Rawlings AV, Harding CR — NMF and skin moisturization. Dermatol Ther (2004). PMID: 15113286 Nakagawa N et al. — Amino acids in stratum corneum. J Invest Dermatol (2004) Fluhr JW et al. — NMF and skin hydration. Exp Dermatol (2008). PMID: 18631469
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