Pentaerythrityl Isostearate/Caprate/Caprylate

Also known as: PE Isostearate Mixed Ester

INCI: Pentaerythrityl Isostearate/Caprate/Caprylate | Function: Emollient, Binder, Dispersant | Type: Pentaerythrityl Mixed Ester

What Is Pentaerythrityl Isostearate/Caprate/Caprylate?

Pentaerythrityl Isostearate/Caprate/Caprylate is a mixed ester combining isostearic acid (branched C18) with capric (C10) and caprylic (C8) acids. The branched isostearate provides excellent spreadability and a luxurious silky feel, while the shorter caprate/caprylate chains contribute lightness. It is used as a premium emollient and pigment dispersant in high-end color cosmetics and skincare.

Key Skin Benefits

+ Luxurious skin feel — silky, velvety application
+ Pigment dispersant — excellent for even color distribution
+ Lightweight — non-greasy, fast-absorbing
+ Excellent spreadability — branched isostearate provides superior slip

Pros

+ Premium sensory profile — silky, elegant feel
+ Good for color cosmetics requiring even pigment dispersion
+ Oxidative stability — isostearate is saturated
+ Versatile across skincare and makeup

Cons

− Higher cost than simpler esters
− Semi-synthetic — not for natural formulations
− Limited published cosmetic-specific data

Specifications

Property	Value
Usage Areas	Face, Eye, Body, Hair
Product Type	Leave-On, Rinse-Off
Source	Semi-synthetic
Natural Level	Semi-synthetic

Safety Ratings

Metric	Rating
Skin Sensitivity	1/5
Comedogenic Rating	0-1/5
EWG Score	1/10

Regional Regulatory Limits

Region	Leave-on %	Rinse-off %	Status
EU (CosIng)	No limit	No limit	Allowed
US (CIR/FDA)	No limit	No limit	Allowed
Japan (MHLW)	No limit	No limit	Allowed
ASEAN	No limit	No limit	Allowed
China (NMPA)	No limit	No limit	Allowed

Typical Usage % by Product Type

Product Type	Typical %
Liquid foundation	2 - 8%
Lip gloss / Lipstick	2 - 10%
Premium face cream	1 - 5%

References

CIR (2019) — Safety Assessment of Pentaerythrityl Compounds. cir-safety.org
CosIng (2025) — Pentaerythrityl Isostearate/Caprate/Caprylate. https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/
SpecialChem — Cosmetic esters. https://cosmetics.specialchem.com/

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