Pentaerythrityl Dioleate is a diester of pentaerythritol with oleic acid (C18:1 unsaturated fatty acid). The unsaturated oleate chains give it a lighter, more fluid consistency compared to the distearate version. It provides emolliency, acts as a pigment dispersant in color cosmetics, and serves as a co-emulsifier with good spreadability.
Key Skin Benefits
+ Light emollient — smooth application without heavy residue
+ Pigment dispersant — helps distribute color evenly in makeup
+ Good spreadability — oleate chains provide slip and glide
+ Co-emulsifier — supports stable formulations
Pros
+ Lighter feel than saturated ester counterparts
+ Good for makeup formulations requiring pigment dispersion
+ Versatile across skincare and color cosmetics
+ Low use levels effective (0.5-3%)
Cons
− Unsaturated ester — more prone to oxidation than saturated variants
− May require antioxidant (tocopherol) for shelf stability
− Not for oxidation-sensitive formulations without proper stabilization
Specifications
Property
Value
Usage Areas
Face, Body, Hair
Product Type
Leave-On, Rinse-Off
Source
Semi-synthetic
Natural Level
Semi-synthetic
Safety Ratings
Metric
Rating
Skin Sensitivity
1/5
Comedogenic Rating
1-2/5
EWG Score
1/10
Regional Regulatory Limits
Region
Leave-on %
Rinse-off %
Status
EU (CosIng)
No limit
No limit
Allowed
US (CIR/FDA)
No limit
No limit
Allowed
Japan (MHLW)
No limit
No limit
Allowed
ASEAN
No limit
No limit
Allowed
China (NMPA)
No limit
No limit
Allowed
Typical Usage % by Product Type
Product Type
Typical %
Foundation / BB cream
1 - 5%
Light lotion
0.5 - 3%
Sunscreen
1 - 5%
References
CIR (2019) — Safety Assessment of Pentaerythrityl Compounds. cir-safety.org