Glabridin

Also known as: Glabridin (Licorice Extract Active)

INCI: Glabridin | Function: Brightening, Anti-inflammatory | Type: Isoflavonoid (plant polyphenol)

What Is Glabridin?

Glabridin is the primary active isoflavonoid in licorice root extract (Glycyrrhiza glabra) responsible for its skin-brightening effects. It inhibits tyrosinase (the rate-limiting enzyme in melanin production) without cytotoxicity, making it a safe, natural alternative to hydroquinone. Also has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

Key Skin Benefits

+ Potent tyrosinase inhibitor (brightening)
+ Non-cytotoxic to melanocytes (unlike hydroquinone)
+ Anti-inflammatory — reduces redness and irritation
+ Antioxidant protection (free radical scavenging)
+ Clinically studied for melasma and PIH

Pros

+ Natural-derived from licorice root
+ Safe tyrosinase inhibition without cell toxicity
+ Anti-inflammatory benefits for sensitive skin
+ Synergistic with other brighteners (niacinamide, TXA)
+ Good safety profile at cosmetic concentrations

Cons

− Poor water solubility (needs solubilizer)
− Yellow/brown color can affect product appearance
− Photosensitive — degrades with light
− Lower potency than hydroquinone (but safer)
− Expensive as purified isolate

Specifications

Property	Value
Usage Areas	Face, Eye, Body
Product Type	Leave-On
Source	Plant (Glycyrrhiza glabra / licorice root)
Natural Level	Natural

Safety Ratings

Metric	Rating
Skin Sensitivity	0/5 (none)
Comedogenic Rating	0/5
EWG Score	1/10

Regional Regulatory Limits

Region	Leave-on %	Rinse-off %	Status
EU (CosIng)	No limit	No limit	Allowed
US (CIR/FDA)	No limit	No limit	Allowed
Japan (MHLW)	No limit	No limit	Allowed
ASEAN	No limit	No limit	Allowed
China (NMPA)	No limit	No limit	Allowed

Typical Usage % by Product Type

Product Type	Typical %
Brightening serum	0.1 - 0.5%
Dark spot treatment	0.3 - 1%
Anti-redness cream	0.05 - 0.2%

References

Yokota T et al. (1998) — Glabridin tyrosinase inhibition. PMID: 10427465
Simmler C et al. (2013) — Licorice constituents review. PMID: 23512807
EWG Skin Deep — Score 1/10

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