3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a stable, etherified Vitamin C derivative that combines the potency of L-Ascorbic Acid with improved stability and skin penetration. The ethyl group protects the molecule from oxidation while maintaining high conversion to active Vitamin C in skin.
Key Skin Benefits
+ Stable at neutral pH (unlike L-Ascorbic Acid)
+ Excellent skin penetration (amphiphilic)
+ Brightens hyperpigmentation effectively
+ Stimulates collagen synthesis
+ Provides antioxidant protection
Pros
+ Stable in formulations (no browning/degradation)
+ Works at skin-friendly pH 5-7
+ Good conversion to active Vitamin C in skin
+ Both water and oil compatible
+ Non-irritating at effective concentrations
Cons
− Higher cost than L-Ascorbic Acid
− Ethyl group adds molecular weight (less C per gram)
− Conversion rate not 100% characterized clinically
− Less researched than pure L-AA
Specifications
Property
Value
Usage Areas
Face, Eye, Body
Product Type
Leave-On
Source
Synthetic
Natural Level
Synthetic
Safety Ratings
Metric
Rating
Skin Sensitivity
1/5 (very low)
Comedogenic Rating
0/5
EWG Score
1/10
Regional Regulatory Limits
Region
Leave-on %
Rinse-off %
Status
EU (CosIng)
No limit
No limit
Allowed
US (CIR/FDA)
No limit
No limit
Allowed
Japan (MHLW)
No limit
No limit
Allowed
ASEAN
No limit
No limit
Allowed
China (NMPA)
No limit
No limit
Allowed
Typical Usage % by Product Type
Product Type
Typical %
Vitamin C serum
2 - 10%
Brightening cream
1 - 5%
Toner
1 - 3%
References
Stamford NP (2012) — Stability of Vitamin C derivatives. PMID: 22404781
Pinnell SR et al. (2001) — Topical L-Ascorbic Acid. PMID: 11293425